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[Ultimate Guide] How to make the perfect Dyno!

Napisany przez RaiUwU, 11-06-2020, 00:54
[Ultimate Guide] How to make the perfect Dyno!

Offline RaiUwU

#1
Information 
Greetings!
I'm here to share with you guys the information I gathered from the hundreds of hours I spent on this server messing around with the dyno.
I know there are a couple of threads regarding Dyno already, but some of them are missing some critical information about some settings and actually are kinda bland on their purpose, most of then teach you what each setting does(kinda), but does not show you HOW to use it properly.
So here I will teach you how to make your car as best as possible, for each kind of skill level and for any car.
But just a side note, Dyno isn't always miraculous, some cars are helpless regardless of Dyno efforts, So keep that in mind.

So I'm gonna begin talking from the most important setting to the least important.
Starting with:

CENTER OF MASS(AERODYNAMICS)

The center of mass of your car is the most important thing that you need to worry on your dyno, perhaps it's the most complicated setting to get right on your car, just so you know, one point off of the correct setting might ruin your entire dyno, your car might get unstable and you will probably want to sell the car because you think it's trash and uncontrolable because you couldn't find a decent center of mass for it, but also, just so you know, center of mass works in a set with Tyre Pressure and Suspenpion Bias, you need to work your car around those 3 settings together to make your car the best for you as possible, will talk about those in a bit.
So, center of mass basically messes with your car stability, Center of mass to the front ("+") basically provides Oversteer, and center of mass to the Rear ("-") provides Understeer, this setting is the most complicated because the approach for Stability vary from car to car, some cars can handle -10 center of mass just fine (Hence Mamba, Stallion, Elegy and Fortune), but some just can't go straight even on 0 (Stock) (Hence Super GT), setting also vary from drivetrain type, For RWD cars you are most likely want to have Rear center of mass (There are some few execptions), for FWD you will most likely want to have always +10 Center of mass, it is very unlikely that you will spin on a FWD car while turning, most FWD slide issues are fixed with brake bias, which I will talk about later, for AWD cars it's more complicated, some are fine with Rear center of mass, and some likes Front Center of mass more.
So, since given the complexety of this setting, I will be listing here the best settings I could find for every car for maximizing stability. I really do not recommend using other CoM setting other than the ones provided here, unless you're building a car for something different like Drift, or stunts, and if you want to make your own setting so, I recommend changing at maximum 1 to the left or 1 to the right of the given setting.
Also I should mention that you need to keep in mind that GAMEPAD is overall superior to KEYBOARD in any situation within NFSSA(Appart from stunting and pursuits), so you will most likely acquire better results with dynos while on Gamepad, but you don't need to worry about this setting specifically, because the settings I'm providing here it suits both gamepad and keyboard just fine, you only need to worry about gamepad on the next 2 dyno settings I will talk about in a while.
So, here are the best center of mass I could find for every car on the game so far (For maximizing Stability and Performance):
(someone teach me how to do the SPOILER thingy pls)
MANANA +10

BRAVURA +10

PRIMO 0

WASHINGTON -7

FUTO -2

INTRUDER -9

MOONBEAM 0 (this car is useless, matt please do something.)

KURUMA +6

CLUB +10

FORTUNE -10

PREVION +10

VINCENT +10

CADRONA -3

EMPEROR -10

URANUS -7

MONROE +6

BLISTA COMPACT +10

FLASH +7

SENTINEL -4

DELUXO +4

EUROS -5

BEAMER 0

MAMBA -10

BUFFALO -9

SUPER GT -6

SULTAN -3

ZR-130 -6

ELEGY -10

JESTER -4

LOCUST 69 +6

COUNTHASH -5

BANSHEE -6

BULLET +5

INFERNUS -5

CHEETAH -6

COMET -4

TURISMO -4

A-TYPE -8

HUSTLER -9

HERMES -9

BROADWAY -7

CLOVER +2

TAMPA -8

DUKES -9

STALLION -10

PHOENIX -6

PICADOR 0

BEEJAY XL -6

KALAHARI +10

PATRIOT -9

HUNTLEY +5

CARTEL CRUISER -2

BUGGY -5

WALTON -5

If you're experiencing slides with these settings, don't change it, try to change the settings I will talk about below.

So the second most important dyno is:

TYRE PRESSURE

Basically tyre pressure messes with your car hability to turn, to GRIP, well your car becomes gripier but turn less, to DRIFT, your car is less gripy but turn more, this setting is also complex because it's the most versatile setting of dyno, you literally can change this to whatever your taste is like.
But to maximize PERFORMANCE, you most likely will want to have your Tyre Pressure to DRIFT, very few cars actually benefits more of GRIP than DRIFT settings like Sultan.
And also this is the setting that gets the MOST affected by GAMEPAD's, so if you play on gamepad, your chances of handling something more slidier increases greatly.
Given the immense complexety of this setting I will also provide suggestions for this settings, both for gamepad and keyboard.
If mine suggestions are too slidy for you, increase the tyre pressure one by one, until it suits your driving style.
The ones I will provide here are the ones I use on gamepad, some of then are as useful in keyboard as in gamepad, so go take a ride with then and test drive it to see if it suits you. (If I can handle it, you can too ;^))
(ALSO BE AWARE THAT THE SETTINGS BELLOW WERE MADE TO MARRY THE CENTER OF MASS MENTIONED ABOVE, IF YOU TRY ONE AND NOT THE OTHER YOU WILL PROBABLY EXPERIENCE DIFFERENT HANDLING THAT I EXPERINCE, SO BE AWARE OF THAT.)(Also note that these settings provided here are for MAXED cars only, setuped cars can have different settings to suit their specific performance, for example SGT 300 can have -5 tyre pressure with gamepad, but for maxed is too much.)

MANANA
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

PRIMO
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -8

WASHINGTON
GAMEPAD -8
KEYBOARD -5

FUTO
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD 0

INTRUDER
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -7

BRAVURA
-10 (BOTH)

MOONBEAM
GAMEPAD 0
KEYBOARD +3

KURUMA
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

CLUB
-10(BOTH)

FORTUNE
-10(BOTH)

PREVION
-10(BOTH)

VINCENT
GAMEPAD -3
KEYBOARD 0~+1

CADRONA
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

EMPEROR
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -7

URANUS
GAMEPAD -6
KEYBOARD -1~+2

MONROE
GAMEPAD -8
KEYBOARD -2~0

BLISTA COMPACT
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

FLASH
GAMEPAD -5
KEYBOARD 0

SENTINEL
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -8

DELUXO
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -5~0

EUROS
GAMEPAD -6
KEYBOARD 0

BEAMER
-10(BOTH)

MAMBA
-10(BOTH)

BUFFALO
GAMEPAD -9
KEYBOARD 0

SUPER GT
GAMEPAD -3
KEYBOARD -1~+2

SULTAN
+1(BOTH)

ZR-130
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -10~-7

ELEGY
-10(BOTH)

JESTER
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

LOCUST 69
GAMEPAD -6
KEYBOARD -3~0

COUNTHASH
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -8~-7

BANSHEE
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -10~-8

BULLET
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

INFERNUS
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -10~-8

CHEETAH
-10(BOTH)

COMET
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -8

TURISMO
GAMEPAD -6
KEYBOARD -2~+2

A-TYPE
GAMEPAD -3 (Can go to -10 on Street-X and other specific tracks, but -3 is overall the most balanced for most tracks A-Type can race on)
KEYBOARD 0

HUSTLER
GAMEPAD -2
KEYBOARD 0~+2

HERMES
GAMEPAD -5
KEYBOARD -2~0

BROADWAY
GAMEPAD -2
KEYBOARD 0~+1

CLOVER
GAMEPAD -9
KEYBOARD -5

TAMPA
GAMEPAD -1
KEYBOARD 0~+2

DUKES
GAMEPAD -1
KEYBOARD 0~+2

SABRE
GAMEPAD +2
KEYBOARD +5~+7

STALLION
GAMEPAD -7
KEYBOARD -4~0

PHOENIX
GAMEPAD -10
KEYBOARD -6

PICADOR
-10(BOTH)

BEEJAY XL
GAMEPAD -5
KEYBOARD -2~0

KALAHARI
GAMEPAD +5
KEYBOARD +9~+10

PATRIOT
GAMEPAD +5
KEYBOARD +9~+10

HUNTLEY
GAMEPAD +2
KEYBOARD +5

CARTEL CRUISER
GAMEPAD -2
KEYBOARD +2

BUGGY
GAMEPAD -8
KEYBOARD -3~0

WALTON
GAMEPAD +3
KEYBOARD +6

Now for the third and last very important dyno setting:

SUSPENSION BIAS

Suspension bias changes how the suspension of your car is balanced, all cars have 50/50 car balancement on stock, putting the bias to the Rear will raise your cars back, and provide more oversteer, putting to the Front will make your cars front to be raised, and provide understeer.
This setting also works together with the two dyno settings from earlier, but is the least important of those, you basically just change this setting if you wanna try push your car performance further beyond, if your car is already at -10 tyre pressure and still turn little, you might wanna try having - suspension bias, if your car is sliding at lets say -8, and you want to try push it further to -10, try putting suspension bias to +, suspension bias to + basically counters the tyre pressure effect slightly, and to - basically buffs the tyre pressure effect, so this setting depends on your taste.
I also should mention that Suspension Bias makes some cars suspension WORSE to curbs, for example, Cheetah can handle -10 tyre pressure and -10 bias with gamepad on URL's, but it's suspension get's super crappy, and it can't drive over most bumps on standard racing, so you might wanna test it out the perfect setting to suit both cases.
This setting isn't that complex because you can just leave it at stock, the improvements this setting provides are too little for you to worry, unless you're super try harding.
I could mention some cars that can have +bias to maximize stability and push tyre pressure further.
The cars that I use + on suspension bias are:

FUTO +1

MOONBEAM +2

URANUS +3

MONROE +1

FLASH +1

DELUXO +1

EUROS +1

BUFFALO +2

SUPER GT +2

LOCUST 69 +1

DUKES +1

PATRIOT +1

BUGGY +1

Also have in mind, that these were also made to marry the Center of mass and Tyre pressure settings, you might wanna also have this setting together with those mentioned above if you wanna experience what I experience. Also don't put too much +bias in your car, you will just make it worse that way, try to put as little + bias as possible to maximize performance.
Basically all other cars can handle - Bias with the settings mentioned on tyre pressure and center of mass, just test it out what you feel most confortable with, but if you don't wanna mess up the car performance, just leave it at 0.

Now for the least important settings:

SUSPENSION STIFFNESS
This setting is straight foward, here you want to have the best setting that can handle Los Santos curbs, if your car can handle curbs in LS your car can drive anywhere, just test it out what setting makes your car jump the least driving on LS roads, and stick to it.

RIDE HEIGHT
You have no reason to not leave your car at +10 ride height, it has 0 down sides, other than body rolling in some cars, like Mamba and Bullet, on those expecifically you want  less Ride Height, but never do - ride height on your cars, it has no purpose, other than getting stuck on all curbs of the game.

BRAKE BIAS
This one is simple, bias to the rear, your car can turn while braking, bias to the front, your front tires lock and you can only go straight while braking, this setting is good putting to the Front (+) on various cars, that tend to oversteer or lose control while breaking or deacelerating like Manana, so if you're braking and your car is going pepega mode, try putting brake bias to the front.

STEERING ANGLE
You have no reason to not leave this setting at +5, unless you're making a car for drift.

DOWNFORCE (AERODYNAMICS)
You have no reason to not leave this setting at +10, this setting has very little impact on cars, expecifically slow ones, the only place you really see this setting doing something is at Bayview Speedway, no car gets harmed by this setting.

And the least important Setting:

DRIVETRAIN
You have no reason to not leave this setting at +10, unless you're TRY HARDING top times on street-x's or on very specific short tracks, this setting is hands down useless. Basically neutral (0) has the same performance as both +10 and -10 regarding acceleration, the difference is so minimal that is super irrelevant to use this setting at all.
The power transference ratio is almost nonexistant, having your car to ACCELERATION only purpose is to lose top speed.
So unless you're playing Street-X 24/7, or building a car for drift, or driving the following cars (Counthash, Kalahari, Buggy, Locust 69, cars that have bugged top speed), or try harding top times on specific tracks, you have no reason to not leave DRIVETRAIN at +10 TOP SPEED.

So this is all I gathered from my research on dyno, if you have anything to complement on this thread please leave in the comments.
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Offline KacPower

#2
Woo, i remember that it's not your first time to write about dyno. Sad that your former statement about dyno tuning (specific dyno for each car) was closed but on the other hand it's understandable.
Anyway thanks for a lot of interesting and important information. Great Job!
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